Base Price: $18 an inch
File work: extra $10
Jibbing: extra $5
Leather or Kydex Sheath: come with knife. If you don't want one dock $10
Materials
Steel:
52100: Most hunting knives. With the triple quench method I can get a hunting knife that will bend 90 degrees and back without braking (do not try). This same same knife will chop through a 2x4 and still shave hairs off your arm. Very easy to sharpen
L-6: Very tough steel, common use bandsaw blades. This still makes for great tatical and camp knifes. The steel resists flexing and bowing very well while maintains a good edge. Easy to sharpen
5160: Very tough steel, common use leaf spring/ coil springs. The steel resists flexing and bowing. Will hold a great edge but not as good as L-6. Easy to sharpen
ATS-34: Japanese stainless steel will brake when flex tofar. I use is for folding knives and Bird and Trout knives. Hold a great edge hard to sharpen.
3V: Stainless steel very strong will brake when flexed to far. I use it in bird and trout and tactical knives.
D2: non stainless steel, very strong, hold a great edge, very hard to sharpen. I use it for utility knives.
Handles:
Linen Micarta: linen pressed together with epoxy. I use this on all my knife because it looks good and his will last for every.
Canvas Micarta: same as above just courser texture
Paper Micarta: same as above but smooth texture
Elk and Deer Horn: This is the more traditional look. I do use it on knives, it hold up great. I dry all my horn that I use. I don't always have it on stock so ask first or you can proved your own and I will lower the price.
Wood: wood works very well, much more decrative. I can do any kind of wood you would like. I don't have it in stock but order when asked. Wood will not be as strong as horn or micarta.